So far, various research groups have instrumented and commercialized hang boards to control training of climbers and to document training progress. In contrast to hang boards, training on campus boards enables even more specific climbing movements. Therefore, we have instrumented a campus board to measure forces applied to mounted rungs or other holds.
Now the task is to elaborate metrics that are appropriate for a climbing specific performance assessment – without requiring additional measurement technology, so that the campus board can be used by any climber, e.g., in a climbing gym, at any time. Potential metrics/assessments should be compared to tests described in literature.
So far, various research groups have instrumented and commercialized hang boards to control training of climbers and to document training progress. In contrast to hang boards, training on campus boards enables even more specific climbing movements. Therefore, we have instrumented a campus board to measure forces applied to mounted rungs or other holds. Now the task is to elaborate metrics that are appropriate for a climbing specific performance assessment – without requiring additional measurement technology, so that the campus board can be used by any climber, e.g., in a climbing gym, at any time. Potential metrics/assessments should be compared to tests described in literature.
- Get familiar with the relevant literature, talk to practioners & trainers
- Elaborate the existing, instrumented campus board and metrics currently calculated
- Deduce metrics likely to represent climbing skills
- Design test protocol
- Run study, analyse data, present results
- Get familiar with the relevant literature, talk to practioners & trainers - Elaborate the existing, instrumented campus board and metrics currently calculated - Deduce metrics likely to represent climbing skills - Design test protocol - Run study, analyse data, present results
- Exchange with very experienced coaches and athletes
- Further development of a unique measurement tool – to be transferred to climbing gyms soon
- Exchange with very experienced coaches and athletes - Further development of a unique measurement tool – to be transferred to climbing gyms soon
Interest in climbing, biomechanics, product development, applied science // being a student of D-HEST or D-MAVT at ETH
Interest in climbing, biomechanics, product development, applied science // being a student of D-HEST or D-MAVT at ETH
Peter Wolf, pwolf@ethz.ch
Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, ETH Zurich
Peter Wolf, pwolf@ethz.ch Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, ETH Zurich