Several recent studies have shown that, in addition to maximum strength and endurance of the finger flexors, the rate of force development is an important predictor of climbing performance. In general, significant differences in the rate of force development were found between different skill levels. However, the ability to develop a high level of force in a short time has only been studied in isometric tasks - the idea that a high rate of force development is required when a climber actually grasps a hold has not been investigated. Therefore, the validity of existing experimental tasks for determining force development rate may be limited.
In this work, the experimental tasks presented in the relevant literature should be compared with a campus boarding task (we have recently instrumented a campus board to monitor applied forces, see figures). In addition, different metrics to describe the rate of force development will be considered. Climbers with different ability levels will be assessed. Correlations between skill level and assessment will provide information on which approach is suitable for assessing the rate of force development (or whether the significance of the rate of force development for climbing skills needs to be questioned).
Several recent studies have shown that, in addition to maximum strength and endurance of the finger flexors, the rate of force development is an important predictor of climbing performance. In general, significant differences in the rate of force development were found between different skill levels. However, the ability to develop a high level of force in a short time has only been studied in isometric tasks - the idea that a high rate of force development is required when a climber actually grasps a hold has not been investigated. Therefore, the validity of existing experimental tasks for determining force development rate may be limited. In this work, the experimental tasks presented in the relevant literature should be compared with a campus boarding task (we have recently instrumented a campus board to monitor applied forces, see figures). In addition, different metrics to describe the rate of force development will be considered. Climbers with different ability levels will be assessed. Correlations between skill level and assessment will provide information on which approach is suitable for assessing the rate of force development (or whether the significance of the rate of force development for climbing skills needs to be questioned).
- Get familiar with the relevant literature, talk to practioners & trainers
- Elaborate the existing, instrumented campus board
- Replicate measurement methods presented in literature
- Design test protocol
- Run study, analyse data, present results
- Get familiar with the relevant literature, talk to practioners & trainers - Elaborate the existing, instrumented campus board - Replicate measurement methods presented in literature - Design test protocol - Run study, analyse data, present results
- Exchange with very experienced coaches and athletes
- Further development of a unique measurement tool – to be transferred to climbing gyms soon
- Data collection may happen in the programme for visitors of the Climbing World Championships
- Exchange with very experienced coaches and athletes - Further development of a unique measurement tool – to be transferred to climbing gyms soon - Data collection may happen in the programme for visitors of the Climbing World Championships
Interest in climbing, mechatronics, and performance analysis
Interest in climbing, mechatronics, and performance analysis
Peter Wolf, pwolf@ethz.ch
Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, ETH Zurich
Peter Wolf, pwolf@ethz.ch Sensory-Motor Systems Lab, ETH Zurich